The Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg

Sept. 29, 2009

The Apartheid Museum has two main sections, one on the history of Apartheid, the other about Nelson Mandela. They were both beautifully done with photos, compelling text, and video materials. (The floor plan was a bit confusing and I got lost a few times, but that was minor.)

There was more there than a person can absorb in a day, but I found it to be a very moving experience. Names, places and events that I heard about at the time were brought together in a full narrative – Soweto riots, Stephen Biko, ANC, Robben Island. Winnie Mandela. And, of course, there was so very much that I didn't know about, and still don't.

I didn't know about the death of the teen-ager Hector Pieterson who was killed when he was part of a group of Black youth protesting the education system they were receiving. At that time the Black children had to “pass” their exams in the Afrikans language at the end of 12th grade. But they only started the study of Afrikans at the beginning of 12th grade! The per capita money spent on educating Black youth was less than 1/10 that of White youth. No books, no furniture, etc. His death sparked a whole youth movement for improved education, that ultimately led to the massacre of 63 youth in one protest, and also led to changes such as removing the Afrikans requirement.

One thing that struck me – how few people actually created the Apartheid system and convinced Parliament and the country to accept it. And I was amazed reading about Helen Suzman, a Jewish woman who for 13 years was the lone voice in Parliament speaking out time and time again against the system, its cruelty, its inadequacy and ineffectiveness for the country. What challenges she must have faced! She served 31 years in Parliament, devoting her life to fighting for equality, justice and care in how we treat one another. There was a very large room devoted to reviewing her life, sacrifices and accomplishments. I found this an inspiring example of what one person can do.

The world pressure against what was happening was very important for change. My Quaker host of last week referred to the time when it was really difficult to travel internationally as a White South African because of how she was viewed by others. I must admit I still have some of that reaction now. Even though I am meeting some White South Africans who are as committed to equality as I am, my active stereotype initially is that they must be racist oppressors. How much easier it is to see the limitations of others than my own! How do I, for example, behave so as to perpetuate the race, class and other privileges that I have? This was the theme of my final project for the Narrative Practices course I am taking here and I notice how very hard it is for people in positions of privilege to see their role in it. The skill of becoming aware of one's role in the system is not an easy one to develop.

I was also captivated by reading about how Nelson Mandela, especially as he matured, took in the humanity of all people, even those whose actions had such devastating effects on his people. He said that in prison he discovered that “the enemy is human after all.” He actively sought to develop relationships with the guards and the warden. Eventually they came to respect him and even ask him for advice. Archbishop Desmond Tutu wrote of Mandela - “He could enter into the heart of General Constand Viljoen and say 'What are the things that make him tick? What threatens him? And what can I do to enable him?' “
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